Savory Sweets

The exquisite combination of savory and sweet can be found in cultures all over the world. Yet for some reason there lurks a great taste divide within many Americans’ palates—do you want salty or sweet? Thanks to these three fine establishments, now you can have your cake and savory, too.



Pine State Biscuits
3640 S.E. Belmont St., 503-236-2246, www.pinestatebiscuits.com 

If you’ve been to the Portland Farmer’s Market, you’ve seen the line. Yes, the one that’s an hour long and ends with a hot, steamy biscuit. These North Carolina fellas have (finally!) opened up a tiny boutique to barter their biscuits. The four-table, counter-serviced shop keeps the menu simple. But don’t be fooled: You will eventually want to eat one of everything. The now nationally acclaimed Reggie Deluxe hoists a moist, crumbly main attraction filled with fried chicken, Heritage Farms bacon, Tillamook cheddar, an over-easy egg and sausage gravy. My left ventricle said, “No effin’ way”; my mouth and gut dutifully ignored it. Be sure to dress lightly, as the crowds, tight quarters and belt-busting bites are guaranteed to have your biscuits toasty.



Jáce Gáce
2045 S.E. Belmont St., 503-239-1887, www.jacegace.com 

The sandwich board outside says it all: art/waffles/beer. Part art/music/movie gallery, part waffle haven and part merchant of obscure microbrew medleys, Jáce Gáce (pronounced “jah-say gah-say”) has found its own unique stride in a location known for just that. A chalkboard menu lists daily choices for waffles, ranging from rum and espresso-soaked tiramisu to black beans and avocado cornmeal. I opted for the waffle purist experience, ordering a plain Brussels-style waff with powdered sugar and fresh-squeezed lemon. It was airy, crisp and perfectly sweet. Next time I got the gut-busting poached eggs and sausage-gravy-smothered cornmeal waffle—undeniably the city’s best breakfast alternative.



Little Red Bike Café
4823 N. Lombard St., 503-289-0120, www.littleredbikecafe.com 

If cute servers, a bike-thru window and homemade doughnut holes aggravate you, stay far away. This quaint St. John’s hideaway could be NoPo’s best-kept secret. Fried egg sandwiches served on rectangular ciabatta come with a plethora of awesome add-ons: Beecher’s Flagship cheeses, fig jam, prosciutto, caramelized onions, applewood-smoked bacon—you get the picture. The Vegan BLT (yes, I understand it’s an oxymoron) is by far the most outstanding meatless sandwich I’ve ever had—bursting with flavorful smoked tempeh, avocado and vegan dill aioli. Proudly serving Courier Coffee, Foxfire teas and organic OJ, Red Bike is undoubtedly geared toward green. Go for the delicious local and organic food; stay for the cutesy atmosphere and the equally terrific multigrain eye candy.



Jenny Nguyen is a freelance food writer with an appetite for alliteration. Pick a peck of pickled press by posting epiqueerean@comcast.net.


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